Thursday, June 20, 2013

Updated Eyebrow Ritual ♥

I have been puzzling over an introduction for this post for about half an hour and havecome up with nothing, so please don't mind me as I launch straight into my browbsession! I grew my eyebrows back around two years ago, after shaving them off for six or so years, and they've been my pride and joy ever since. Somewhere on here, there was a documentation of the process of growing back, a little natural look tutorial. I've since updated my ritual and in lieu of some very lovely enquiries, thought I'd share it and some handy eyebrow wrangling tips!

What I use:
I'm no brow professional, but these are the things I have found work well for me. I don't touch my forehead much, so creme eyeliner is a viable option, but if you have problems with cremes, a sharpened, quality eyebrow pencil in your shade will work great!
Left to right: Compact slanted brush, clean mascara brush, angled eyeliner brush, Inglot palette brow powder, Illamasqua Gleam, Smashbox mini creme eyeliner palette, Prestige brow gel. Eye finishing touches; Napoleon Perdis eyeliner, Face of Australia liquid eyeliner, Bobbi Brown lengthening mascara.

Clockwise from bottom; Smashbox mini creme eyeliner in Midnight Brown, Prestige Brow Perfection, Inglot freedom palette brow powder #569, Illamasqua Gleam in Aurora.

Okay, now you have your stuff together, let's get started on those brows! I like to do mine before I have my eyes done, but that's just how I roll. If you're a fan of doing really lovely complex eye make up, it's probably best if you do your eyes before you get started on your brows, just 'cause manipulating skin for shadow can ruffle brows.

This is what I have to work with au naturale! They're a little scruffly and not nearly as plump as I like them. Please excuse the flyaway hairs that are constantly photobombing me!

Using a clean mascara brush, gently comb the brow into place. It can feel pretty funny brushing brows into shape for the first time, like a new part in your hairdo, but that goes with time. Combing really helps the brow be the best shape and you can create all kinds of shapes with just a few brushes. I drew some lil purple lines to sort of indicate the direction I brush mine, upwards strokes help to make them neat and arched high. 

Using the creme liner & the mini liner brush that came with it (or any fine firm liner brush) to really define the arch and tail. The little purple X is the kind I sort of draw in my brows, the intersection between the defining lower line & the defining arch line, more than anything it's a handy guide. You really don't want to fill your whole brows with liner if you're going for a more natural look, just gently extend from the arch intersection & define the lower line of the brow. It may look a little patchy now, but that's where brow powder steps in!

Get a good firm slanted eyeliner brush, swipe on some brow powder but make sure to tap off the excess or it'll end up all over your face. Follow the direction that the hair has been combed in, and the creme definition,  and pack the powder into your brows. To avoid a heavy blunt look, just use upward strokes. 

For this step, I like to use a slanted eyeliner brush for the fact that it's very precise and Illamasqua Gleam is incredibly easy to blend. It's best to use a cream highlighter, but concealer or primer with carefully brushed on powder highlighter will work. Swipe your preferred brush in your preferred highlighter and line the arch- the product will be the heaviest and require the most blending, then follow the line of your brow with a less heavy  highlighter line. The idea is to create a very subtle crispness to your brow, leading to a creamy glow which  gives a higher arch illusion.

For the final touch, gently brush on some brow gel. You want to be very light handed as heavily gelled eyebrows tend to look a little Ross Gellar which isn't good. Follow the direction that you combed your brows to really define the hairs and seal the powder. I like to finish with a simple eye look & that's it! Brows are done, congrats on reading all the way through this!
Some handy hints!
  • Get familiar with the pencil trick in order to make the most of your naturally lush brows without having to go crazy with the tweezers.
  • An old cleaned mascara brush has trumped many a fancy eyebrow comb in my quest to tame my brows. You can get bags of disposable mascara wands which are awesome, not only for their wrangling abilities, but you'll have some spare to brush some coconut oil on your lashes & eyebrows before bedtime to promote thick and healthy growth.
  • Brow powder sticks better to a base, like a creme liner or pencil, and maintains a neat sharpness throughout the day, powder on its own tends to move about.
  • A good brow gel is essential, but if you're unable to find one, a quality gentle hair gel brushed on ever so gently is a good DIY. Just make sure to take it off with your make up at the end of your day!
I hope this is helpful, I had a lot of fun shooting & blabbing beauty stuff. Good luck & happy eyebrowing!